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DAILY JOURNAL: INDEX Our film team was in Mali from Feb 7 to March 2, 1998. Over this time they communicated with the webmaster by satellite phone, described each day's events and answered INTERACTIVE questions. Scroll down this page to find all the daily journals or... click on the links below.
Feb 8 |
Feb 9 |
Feb 10 |
Feb 11
Daily Journal: MARCH 1, 1998
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Or read about his conclusion below: " Concluded would be too strong a word. What I feel is that there would definitely be room for hope. There's a lot of work to be done. For every area that one hears about or sees where there are efforts being made to stop desertification, there are lots of other areas where these efforts are not being made or there are things that are actually destructive still going on. You know it's hard to say. But certainly there is a lot of hope among the people that we were working with and good reason for it because we saw living examples of situations where people had turned it back. Whether you can do it on a national scale fast enough is another question altogether. Certainly locally, among the people that are actively working on the problem, it is being dealt with."
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| For this one... you'll have to get RealAudio. We're not providing a transcript because it's not the words that are interesting... it's the delivery!
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| Or read his description below: " Well the big event yesterday was filming a local Malian musician singing a song she wrote for us about us being here. Actually it's two songs and we'll pick one, on that subject and slight variations on that theme. It worked very well. We were out on the edge of town and it looked quite nice. And she sang very well. And then today we started off by going over to meet Mobe Traore, who's a another guitar player from here who I'd heard at the Calgary folk festival back in the summer. We didn't expect him to be in town and he turned out to be in town, so we went and had a brief visit with him. He was about to go and play at a friend's wedding, so he invited us to come along to the wedding. We didn't stay for very much of it in the end. In the afternoon we ran around doing more shots....shots in the market. People in Bamako, especially the market, are much less excited about being filmed than the people in the country were, or much less pleased about the concept. There are some angry fists being shaken at the lense which I'm sure we have on tape. Basically, that was it...just basically picking up stuff that we hadn't gotten yet. As of about 6:30 tonight it was a wrap."
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| Or read his answer below: " There's a tendency for the music of the area to break out in styles that are not exactly national or particular to one nation. The griot tradition is not just a Malian tradition...it's also Senegalese and Ghanaian and represented in other countries in the area. Any of the cultures that are artificially divided by the national boundaries that were left by Colonialism have similar expressions. When stuff comes on the radio, the Malian drivers are always immediately able to identify where it's coming from. So, they hear distinctions for sure."
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| Or read his answer below: " There was definitely an interest there. You have to understand that most of these people had never seen a guitar like what I play. They have their traditional guitar, the ngoni, which when they are trying to describe it to us, they will call it a traditional Malian guitar, which bears very little resemblance to the instrument that I play, especially the Dobro which is shiny chrome. It was pretty interesting for them just to see and hear it. Of course they didn't understand anything I was singing because nobody speaks English around here, so there was no communication of the specific kind that came through the lyrics, but there was definite sense of a shared experience anytime you play with or for people. They're there...they're into it...there's music as a bridge. In this case a different kind of bridge perhaps than what I would normally be dealing with, with an audience at home, but definitely things were exchanged through these performances. So yes I think there was communication there for sure."
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| Or read her answer below: " In the villages, basically if people get through the elementary school they are very lucky.....if they can afford it. What I know is that once they've done five classes of elementary, they go to sort of a middle school for another four years and if they're really good, in this case they would have to go to Douentza itself, or even to Mopti to get to a high school. So, that means you actually have to go to a boarding school to get to high school if you live in the rural areas because there are not many high schools around. At that point if you are in a boarding school, probably the rythmn would by very similar to our system. The kids who are younger, who go to middle school would have to work at home and help. So you would go to school in the evening and in the early morning and you would have to do your chores and help your family. But with high school, I think you would probably study pretty similar to what we do."
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| Or read her answer below: " The tradition is oral. You meet a lot of people who have never been able to read or write, but the history is very much alive though oral..passing on from one generation to another. Certain things, like it was mentioned that we were talking to the chief, certain things only the old people would be allowed to talk about with the chief, but then he would pass it on, so there's a lot of tradition. What the program has done, particularly with USC, is to try and write some of these things down. Not all of it. Some of the things you shouldn't write down, but other things would be very helpful to have in writing so, there is a little bit of a switch developing that the younger generation appreciates to have things in writing. But, I think the oral traditional will continue."
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| Or read his (final interactive) answer below: " I think it will have a lasting effect on the people we met. I think, for one thing, we were very exotic compared to most of the people who were there. They won't forget us in a hurry. We were in their face for two weeks practically, in the case of the people of Ibisa. They were glad to see us. They received us very well partly because of the association with USC and partly because they were just hospitable people anyway. I think in some ways, doors were opened for us that were a little surprising. I think the interview that we did with the old chief of the village led to him revealing things about the culture that are not usually revelaed. The people who know anything about the Dogon culture will probably find the interview with him most ineteresting when they get to see it. But I think in the case of those people at least there'll definitely be a lasting impact. They will be telling stories about us and probably telling jokes about us for a long time to come. In the case of the other people around, I wouldn't think we'd be particularly memorable to the people of Timbuktou for instance, to whom we were just more tourists basically. But I think with Tumani Djoubati, for instance, I intend to keep contact with im. I think we got along really well and there was a sort of warmth that I think we both felt there that we both would like to keep going if possible, so, who knows where that will go."
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Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 27, 1998
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| Or read his answer below: " Everywhere we've gone, until today, we've had great encounters with a wonderful assortment of donkeys...they're everywhere, they're the beast of burdens around these parts. They're stubborn and just great looking creatures and they're everywhere. For the first time since we left Timbuktou we saw some horses, they're a small breed of horse, a little bit in the vein of a Morgan horse but they're smaller, they're around 15 heads I guess, somewhere between a pony and a horse. We've seen lots of dogs. In some areas they seem to like their dogs and look after their dogs...other times you seem almost roaming packs of dogs. They just wander around in packs. We see lots of goats and sheep....sheep that aside from their heads that give it away as sheep, look like goats because they're very short-haired. Lots of cows. The Peul people have a particular breed that they favour and they're spotted brown, white, black and white cows. They're quite different from the cows back home....long horns and a kind of a lumpy matter between their shoulders. They look a bit like bramen cattle. We've seen huge cockroaches in shower and in the latrine that we used to frequent back in Doentza, especially at night they would come out and hang around on the walls. We've seen lots of birds, wonderfully coloured birds that I haven't seen anywhere else and lots of chickens and today for the first time I saw a little group of pigs burrowing around in a mound of dirt and stuff. Of course throughout the trip we've seen lots of camels, until the last leg of the journey. Hippos, that was one of the few wild animals we saw in the Niger River when we were crossing on the ferry. Just near Douentza there's an elephant reserve which has all kinds of monkeys and elephants and apparently other wild animals. It wasn't the nature of our film nor did we have enough time to go up and take a look."
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| Or read his answer below: " You see things, you experience things and it takes time to sort of put it all into perspective with all the other things you've seen and experienced, so it's a little bit hard for me to just pull out of a hat what impact this experience will have had on my view of things. I mean it's a reinforcement of stuff I've already seen. I've been in other third world countries with a similar degrees of difficulty of poverty, let's say. This is the first time in a desert situation and the first time in different kinds of cultures that we've moved through. What impact those cultures will have is hard to say. Spiritually speaking , I don't know that I am going to be swayed of my general world view one way or the other by this. Every experience that I have, that most of us have, if we go into it with out eyes open, it enriches us. It leads to interesting questions if nothing else, and I expect that this will do that as well."
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| Or read his answer below: " When we were here in October it looked dry enough to us, although that was supposed to be the end of the rainy season, but there had been very little rain and it looked dry enough to us, but now it looks even worse, there's been absolutely no rain since then. The Niger River is at a much lower level. We drove bridges across Rivers that were completely dried up. It's quite a desperate situation. Our focus this time was on the market gardens. That is something that USC has helped the local people to get into in the last few years to make up for the lack of food during the so called rainy season or winter season, the rain that hasn't been coming for the last couple of years. So, they've got them into market gardening and that harvest is around this time of year. So we focussed on that principally this time. The market gardening is mainly in the hands of the women here, so we see how the women now are playing a central role in helping the communities to survive."
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Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 26, 1998
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| Or read his description below: " We had a travel day...moving away from Douentza to the west...to Mopti. We went through a place called Sanga and Bandiagara which are on the Bandiagara escarpment ....the Dogon area. Today we went through there and spent a good part of the day wandering around in the cliffs of Sanga, which I'm sure Bruce will tell you more about. Very, very beautiful part of the country. And tomorrow we are heading towards Bamako. We should be there by the end of the day tomorrow. The following couple of days we're going to be filming with a Malian musician on Saturday."
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| Or read his description below: " As you arrrive in it you are kind of going what's all the fuss about...this is a world heritage site. It's steeped in history and remarkable for these cliff-side villages. When you drive into town from the direction we came from, you drive across a sort of broad rolling plateau. You know it's nice country, but you don't see anything that suggests it should be a world heritage site. The town itself is undergoing construction and reconstruction and the buildings look more substanital, are better built using concrete instead of the banko-clay stuff you see elsewhere. It all looks pretty dressy! When you get past the town and the road winds down this incredible escarpment face and you find yourself confronted with basically a broad desert plain that goes for 200 kilometres, all the way down to Burkino Faso. The cliff-face itself is dotted with Dogon villages that are built very much in the traditional style, moreso than the ones we saw around Douentza, the ones that I saw at least anyways. Right in the cliff-face above these villages are the reamins of houses that were inhabited by people called the Tellem, who are pre-historic people who were there when the Dogons got there. There is evidence that they lived in these cliff-face dwellings for thousands of years. Their mysterious in the way that nobdody knows much about them. They were either exterminated or driven away in confrontations with the Dogon, who were forced into this area with their confrontations with the more agressive Islamic peoples, as they moved into the area. So, that's the basic history. The Dogon villages are set up below the cliff dwellings. The cliff dwellings are little kind of turret-like structures that are built right into the cliff-face and they presumably are built over the entrances of caves so instead of living as cave dwellers, the way we think of neanderthals living, they were living in the caves but they built on to the front of the caves quite sophisticted structures of interesting architectural design. It's really incredible to look up at. Some of these things, you can't fathom how they ever came and went from them because they were 400 feet up a cliff, that's just basically a sheer drop and there's somebody's house there. And then there's another 200 feet to the top of th cliff. These are broad estimates in terms of figures, but that's the kind of impression it gives. One theory is they had rope structures that connected these buildings and the ground but, our Dogon guide said he didn't think that was the case, that they just climbed up, but that's a bit of a stretch so, who knows. But a really incredible depth of history in these structures and an incredible landscape. You can see for miles and if the sand hadn't been blowing in the distance you could have seen probably all the way to Burkina Faso from the top of this thing.... it's just amazing!"
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| Click here for Bruce's answer to an INTERACTIVE
question about body language. Or read his answer below: " They use their hands a lot when they're talking. They speak (the Dogon people) in short phrases. For instance when we're greeting the chief of a village, there'll be a bunch of the elders of the village sitting around..the chief will speak and he'll come out with a short phrase and everybody will go uh-huh and then he'll come out with another one and everyone will go uh-huh. Their speach is accompanied by, it depends on the person how much body language they use, but there's a lot of hand gesturing and it's distinctly local ..different than anything you would run into in Italy, for example, where people are famous for waving their hands around when they talk. It's a different kind of hand language. Body language...people stand very close to you. Then sense of personal space is very different here from what it is at home. In a crowd, people crowd right up against you and nobody minds."
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| Click here for Bruce's answer to the INTERACTIVE
question "Do the people of Mali have values that you see missing in the Western world?" Or read his answer below: " People are friendly...open and welcoming. You know, you'll meet somebody on a path and they'll be looking pretty surly...they'll have their regular "getting through the day" face on just like people at home do. But as soon as you say hello there's this beam of a smile that comes out and they're engaged with you immmediately. You exchange greetings and you shake hands. There's an openess to communication that you don't see much at home these days. One thing that struck me as we were driving along today, everywhere you drive people, particlarly the kids, but adults as well, will wave at you. You're just a car passing full of strangers, they have no idea who's in the car, but there's this desire to exchange greetings, to communicate in some way. I remember when I was a kid in around 1949 and 1950, I would be pretty little, but I can remember being driven around and farmers driving by on their tractors would wave at you as you drove by if you were in the country. You don't see much of that anymore either, but there was a sense that...I was struck by the fact that we once had that same sense of the appropriateness of communicating with each other even though it was only instantaneous or momentary, that these people have. And it seems to me that the loss of that indicates maybe a deeper loss."
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Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 25, 1998
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| Or read his descriptiont below: " First thing we went to a village called Beni which is the site of a dam that's being built across a narrow valley, the intention of which is to catch the run-off during the rainy season and hold it. It's going to be about two metres high which will produce a lake of that depth approximately....that will cover quite a large area and hopefully I guess, in their view, will last through most of the dry season. From that dam they will have a system of irrigation channels that will allow them to improve the soil and develop farming in the area below the dam. So, it's a pretty important project. It's the biggest undertaking of that sort. It's a micro-dam, it's not a mega project of any sort, but it's an ambitious undertaking under these conditions. USC is providing the materials and the villagers are providing the work. Basically they've committed themselves to getting it done before the rainy season starts. It's well underway. The wall we saw is about a metre high and it runs the whole width of this valley. It was kind of an impressive thing to see. The village itself is perched on a ledge on a plateau high above the dam in a very interesting locations as well. I guess it's worth adding that one of the reasons that the dam is important from an irrigation point of view is that on the other side of where the dam is, is the village's only water supply, which is a well that requires the women to walk about a kilometre straight uphill carrying water on their heads....every day to supply their household needs. Obviously under those conditions there's nothing that they can do in the way of agriculture. So this will provide hopefully, a way for them to expand their economic base and their nutritional base as well. We spent the afternoon in Ibisa catching up on whatever we thought we'd missed and saying our goodbyes to people. That pretty much summs it up. It was nice to get a last little vivid glimpse of Ibisa, which is such a beautiful location. When you get above the village into where the springs are, it's all lush and green and beautiful and it's about the only spot like that anywhere near here, so it's kind of a magic little place."
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| Click here for Bruce Cockburn's
answer to the INTERACTIVE question "Since you'll be leaving the Douentza regions soon...
What are you tired of and what will you miss?"
Or read his answer below:"
Sand in everything!! I'm a little tired of that. What will I
miss? As times goes on I'm going to think of all sorts of things
probably. This place has an atmosphere all its own and the kind of
windy dry spaces that you find here represent a kind of landscape that
really appeals to me anyway. I've always like that kind of thing, so
certainly sitting in Toronto in the middle of winter, I'm going to miss
that."
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| Or read his answer below:" It was a mistake!! It came out of, I think, a conversation I had with Bruce. He was trying to remember the name of an article that he thought he had read and he said something and as I remembers it ...it was River of Sand. What a great title!! It turns out that it wasn't the name of the article. So it still fits. We've been up here for a few weeks, so that's a good sign."
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Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 24, 1998
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| Or read their description below: " (Bob Lang) This morning we filmed a tree nursery and a seed bank that have been established in this area. It was quite impressive. A small beginning but a very important one for the people in this area. This afternoon we were up with Bruce filming a musical performance in a village called Wollo, which is just on a plateau north of here...north of Douentza. It was quite a site....Bruce on the edge of a cliff and a hundred kids watching him with his steel Dobro. (Bruce) As Bob said it was a kind of a plateau part-way up the side of the foothill slope of these incredible cliffs. It was a really amazing landscape...there's an amazing view from there. It's a bit of a funky place...it's partly abandoned. A lot of people have left for the exode. Those who've stayed, there's apparently a political division among them. A couple of people want to be Chief and not much is getting done around the village. You can kind of tell that by the state of things. There's a noticeable funk about the place both literally and figuratively, but the people were really welcoming and definitely interested in what we were up to. And it looked incredibly beautiful from up there."
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Or read their description below: "
(Bob) We had a little mishap with the camera. Fortunately the
Betacam is a workhorse and even though it's damaged a bit, it's still
usable and we got through that.
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| Or read her answer below: " Certainly, to try to raise awareness in Canada about the complexity of the lives people have here in Mali by living in desert and pre-desert areas and fighting very hard to keep their livelihood and keep their environment going. For that you need solidarity. That's very clear. Raising awareness in Canada is very important. USC Canada has been here for 10 years so we're very keen to have a broader base of support in Canada and use our various means to do so. The video would be one means to raise the awareness and help people appreciate the situation. At the same time, we've added in a completely new component in the sense that we also believe that Mali has a lot to offer in terms of music, in terms of culture and tradition, which we would all be very intrested in. There's also that element of outreach. Certainly it has nothing to do with evangelism."
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| Or read his answer below: " Is it necessary to look at what corporations do and to make choices about your own stance on things based on what you find when you look like that? I would say of course it's important. It's important for everybody...Christians and otherwise. To me the world is sliding faster and faster into a kind of almost corporate-based fuedalism that certainly serves the interests of those on the boards of major corporations and it doesn't really serve the interests of anyone else. It's a very grave threat to the kind of democratic ideals that we all grew up with. So, I think that needs to be paid very close attention to. The more people that are concerned about that kind of thing, the greater the likelihood that we will get around it somehow...around this threat. But in spiritual terms for me, it comes down to a matter of conscience. If you are talking about whether you want to invest in a certain corporation then you have to look at what that corporation does and you have to look at whether by doing these things, you're supporting something that you don't want to be supporting. And that's what it comes down to."
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| Or read his answer below: " It's officially a Muslim country, but there are vestiges at least, of other faiths. The Dogon people with whom we've been spending all this time...the only public statement or overt statement we've had on that issue you've already heard. The indication was 'OK we used to be superstitous, now we're not because we have the faith'. But in fact I think those old traditions linger in people's minds and hearts and I think it's clear that there's a connection with the earth among the people that is not, as part of my limited knowledge at least, the Islam faith. It is something that goes back further in history than the arrival of Islam. Just as you find the same thing among people in the Christian world that have preserved elements of earlier views....that have a general world view that is broader and more earth-based than what the very formal faiths that we've inherited have tended to be. So, the people in Ibisa still do make sacrifices to keep the spring flowing. They just make smaller ones than they used to make. That suggests to me that there is a lot of other stuff going on that we would have to be here a lot longer to get the dope on."
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| Or read her answer below: " I haven't seen any wind up radios around here. I've heard of them, but I haven't seen any and I don't think.... where we are right now...they don't exist yet. People use a lot of transistor radios. You normally find two or three people around who have them and they share the news or the music with everybody around them. I'm sure they're spending a lot of money on batteries but they have no choice. I mean, it's also that you find that the simpler and cheaper solutions are not available to people who are poor, so they spend a lot more money on basic things or things that they see as a luxury like a transistor, because that's the only way they can get it."
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Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 22 and 23,
1998
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| Or read his description below: " This thing that we did yesterday was actually a really nice way to spend part of a Sunday afternoon... jamming with this guy, who actually looks like a cross between an African version of Hugh Marsh mixed with Ray Charles. He was really cool and he played great. He had a four string version of the Ngoni that he played pretty much in a rythmic style but he had finger picks made up of balls with little leather straps that went around the fingers. He drummed on the surface of the instrument as well as playing the instrument. It was really interesting to watch and fun to play with. We did a jam together based on a thing that he started playing and we did a song of mine called Kit Carson in which he played kind of a rythmn stuff along with me. It was fun!"
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| Click here for Bruce's description of activities for
February 23. Or read his description below: " Today the musical content called for a recreation of this casual drum lesson that I had the other day when the folks at Ibissa pulled out the drums for us. So I had a whole personal kind of involved lesson for the camera today which was also a very interesting and fun. Otherwise we were just kind of poking around the town shooting things which will turn up in the film. People doing their thing and various farming techniques and that sort of stuff."
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| Click here for Bruce's description of what kind of food
the team (and local people) are eating. Or read his description below: " We haven't eaten in a local persons house exactly. So I shouldn't try to answer what local people eat. But what we've been eating, it has generally consisted of rice or some other form of starchy matter, millet, couscous like stuff or pasta, spaghetti cut up in little pieces occasionally. It is a pretty meat intense diet traditionally, the meat being chicken, lamb, sometimes beef, sometimes a little bit of fish. It is usually presented, in our experience at least, most of the time we've had a stew made of this plus various vegetables which are put with whatever the starchy substance was. The vegetables include a kind of bitter gourd thing that grows on a vine in the sand. It don't know what it's called. When it's cooked it's kind of bright green and it is bitter tasting but it mixes really well with the sauce and other ingredients. I'm told it's bitter melon, but it doesn't really resemble a melon very much. It's small, about the size of a hard ball and it's very firm as well. That, yams, casaba root, onions, various things like that...hot peppers, savage little red peppers, that come in these casseroles which we eat with great caution."
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| Click here for Bruce's answer to an INTERACTIVE question about the
role of music in the lives of the people of Mali - more specifically: does music help the people in
troubled times? Or read his answer below: " I would say the answer to that is a bit speculative, but I think the music here is integrated totally into the rest of these people's lives. Those people who have transistor radios or cassette players have them going all the time. There's music on the radio all the time, that's Malian music primarily although we hear other music from other African countries as well. In the village you don't hear music all the time. but people sing all the time. The kid who's hearding the goats is singing, the kids on the way home from school are singing, people sing while they work. The women are pounding millet and they're singing together while they do it. It's not just a way to escape from your life and feel better its a way to make the actual work you are doing go better and I think at that, it's very comparitive to the roots of blues. Very few people are professional musicians here. There are a few but most are people who are farmers and other occupations and they play music,instruments, at a community function, like celebrations of any kind...the instruments come out and people play. Probably what you'd come across in Cape Bretton."
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| Click here for Bruce's answer to the INTERACTIVE
question "What is the perception that the people of Mali have of what's
happening in the world (IRAQ crisis, etc...) and how about yours, how
do you look at these big events from a place so distant... and peaceful like Mali?" Or read Bruce's answer below: " You know it's not that distant. It's actually a lot closer to Iraq than Canada is. We don't hear a radio all the time so we're not up to date on exactly what is going on but people do check up on it..sure. The people that we associate with...there's a radio in the truck and the news is on from time to time..people pay attention to that stuff. Also, as we do at home, they pay a lot of attention to the sporting events. There's been a inter-African football championship going on the last couple of weeks and that's been the focus of a great deal of attention in the media. People are aware of what's going on around them, because it's going to effect them and they know that. They live their quiet lives but they're pretty much aware that they can be affected by things taking place somewhere else. The African experience has certainly been, over the last several hundred years, of people being adversely affected by people from somewhere else. So they're pretty tuned in to that kind of stuff. there's also a war going on in Sierra Leone, right next door. So people are paying attention to that to."
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Or read her answer below: " At the moment in the program areas here people use wood....that's their only real fuel. If you have money you can of course buy other fuel sources. The program is not designed to provide services for people, but to help them use what they have more efficiently. One fuel source would be solar energy but it's a very difficult one to introduce in areas where the literacy is below 10 per cent. People have to struggle and don't really understand it is a more technical concept. There is an effort being made to introduce a solar dryer for vegetables and fruit in a pilot project, to get them thinking of those types of energies, but it will be a slow process and it will have to be introduced with a lot of education and sensitivity, to their cultural traditons and their land. So, that would be one obvious way of moving forward. What we have done is introduced improved stoves so they don't just cook on an open fire which they've done in the past. So, these are actually portable stoves that use about one third of the fuel or wood than the open fire."
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Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 21,
1998
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| Or read his description below: " We spent the whole day in Ibisa shooting stuff...a range of things...the market. It was market day and it was a very colourful scene with people milling around, buying and selling. People came in from neighbouring villages with their own produce and crafts and so on, including things like bamboo bed frames that a number of men brought in from a nearby village...all kinds of different stuff. We witnessed a cooking workshop wherein new recipes were introduced involving some of the new vegetables that are part of this market gardening program that is the subject of some of our filming. Had a little interview on camera with a guy who gave me a drum lesson the other day. We talked about the exode. We were wondering why there were so few young men in the village, young being mid 20s to mid 30s. You see a lot of older people and a lot of women and children and not so many men of that age. So, we wanted to ask this guy, because he was one who did fit into that age group, why that might be so and he said that in his own family a number of people had left to look for work. In their case it was partly seasonal. This is the off season in terms of the real hard core agriculture that goes on, so some of these people had gone to the city to look for work or other parts of the country. He stayed because he is now the head of the family because his father is dead and this guy is 31 years old. So he stayed to kind of oversee things and some of his relatives are there to help him with the gardening and so on."
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| Click here for Bruce Cockburn's VERY SURPRISING answer
to the question "What do people in Mali think of Canada, assuming they know about us at all?" (If
you're a Canadian you'll definitely be touched by this one!) Or read about it below: " That's a really interesting question. I don't think a lot of people in Mali think very much about Canada one way or the other. But one thing we found out about immediately on our arrival in Bamako within the first couple of days was that in one of the areas where USC is working near Bamako, this village had heard about the ice storms in eastern Canada and had taken up a collection to send to help people back home....to help the victims of the storm. The collection was a very modest sum by our standards but an enormous sum by theirs and it is something that has to been seen as quite special."
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| Click here for Bruce Cockburn's answer
to an INTERACTIVE question
about whether he been inspired by his experiences in Mali. Or read his answer below: " Yes....is the short answer to that. I have been inspired by many things. ..the energy of the people, their hospitality and warmth, the culture, the music, the colour...it's a marvellous place from a human perspective. It also has a marvellous landscape that has been inspirational in lots of ways but what that will produce in the long term is impossible to guess at. I've been taking lots of notes, we'll just have to see what develops."
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| Click here for Bruce Cockburn's description of a dust storm (the first one
the team has experienced). Or read his description below:" We also had a sandstorm today that was actually one of the most interesting features of the day for me, before we even got to Ibisa. We woke up this morning and it was partly clouded over and the mountains were almost obscured from view with blowing dust. It was a great scene at one point, driving down the highway with dust blowing every which way and a guy comes ridimg out of the dust on his white camel with his turban wrapped around his face and a transistor radio hanging around his neck. There's a big soccer series going on right now among various African countries and everyone is tuning into the radio all the time to hear the results of whatever current game is going on so, I assume that was what he was listening to."
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|
Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 20,
1998 Good news
about Bruce's health... He figures he just had some sunstroke
yesterday and he's fine today. (He actually said he'd "checked himself
out of the Ebola ward" but I'm darn sure he was just joking.)
|
| Or read his description below: "Film, film, film...mostly around Ibisa. We went to one other village, the village of Beguima this morning, that we had already been to once and we followed on the original plan with those people to film them working their land. They turned out all dressed up in their Sunday best for the film shoot which was kind of pretty looking...not entirely authentic but certainly nice looking...nice colours and so on. They have a lovely garden there. We spent more of the day at Ibisa, the town that we are concentrating on and got shots of people working, doing their thing and covered some of the landscape and that sort of thing. So, we had a celebratory lunch...they've been having meetings to do with USC programs all week,,,,this being USC's local headquarters and they wound up their program today so everyone was saying goodbye and taking off to their own respective districts. One of the villages had donated a lamb which we all ate a piece of in honour of each other and in honour of our continued good luck with the work at hand and so on. And it was all very nice."
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| Click here for Bruce's description of the difference between
the North American guitar and the Malian guitar (called a "Ngoni"). Or read his description below: " They come with varying number of strings. The instrument is called an Ngoni. It's got a short little neck. It's about the size of a mandolin or smaller even and the body of it is a gourd or shaped wood with a goat-skin head and it's played with the fingers the way a guitar is but it's got a very high pitched, kind of twangy sound to it that's quite neat. This instrument is thought to be the original form of what's become the banjo and other instruments like that."
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| Click here for Bruce's answer to a question
about what "surprised him most" about Mali. Or read his answer below: " The whole place is surprising in lots of different ways. The landscape... there are cultures here that I've never seen before. The depth of history I suppose is certainly different from my experience in Mozambique where you had the sense that people had been cut off from their history. These people, at least the people that we're in contact with, have a very keen sense of the depth of their history and of their roots which is different from elsewhere. And of course in the western hemisphere there isn't that same sense of the depth of history, except among native people."
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Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 19,
1998 By the
way... Bruce is slightly under the weather today (just slightly...
don't worry) so he won't be able to answer today's questions today...
but tune in again tomorrow and hopefully you'll find his answers here
then. (The rest of the team is just fine.) |
| Click
here for producer Robert Lang's description of a full day of
filming and interacting with the people of the Douentza region. Or read Bob's description below: "It was a very good day. We had a morning where we filmed a women's group who were doing market gardening which is quite unusual in this town because it is a Muslim town and a traditional dogon town at the same time and the women have traditionally not had their own market gardening. They really weren't responsible for anything that would bring them any income. This is recent activity...actually close to a year and it has been quite a revolution in this village. So they had responsibility for this market garden, they look after it and they get the benefits for their family. It took a lot of convincing of the men in the village to allow them to do this. So we were filming with them and then we went up and spoke with the chief who gave us a very interesting talk about some of the history of the village and the Dogon people who have been around different parts for 1000 years. A lot of their traidtions had to do with traditions that go back many thousands of years. One of them Bruce actually asked about was the fact that there is a spring from which they have quite a few benefits for their agriculture and food growing, so he asked about this spring and what it meant to the community. Very interesting, interesting response that had to do with a combination of Muslim beliefs and the traditional beliefs of the Dogon and how they integrate those two. In the afternoon we did some further filming around the village and ended up, when we were at a bit of a loss as to what to do next, Bruce pulled out his guitar, even though he wasn't feeling very well, and played a little bit from the back of the jeep and then Martin took out his monitor and showed the women, whom we had filmed this morning, some of the footage that we had shot with them and they were tickled and very entertained by it. So we had a little cross cultural communication and a little give and take during the day...it was a really good day."
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| Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 18,
1998 Click here for producer Robert Lang's
description of the days events.
Or read his description below: "Today was our first real day of shooting in Douentza. We decided
to focus on one town...a village called Ibisa. It's a little town in
the foothills of the escarpment near Douentza, about 30 or 40 kilometres
away. A very active little town that has a lot of projects going on
that we find in all the villages in the area around here. We decided to
focus on one village instead of two or three and on too many different
matters. There's some interesting people and projects and also a lot of
variety in this village. So we're going to hang out there for a few
days."
Click here for Bruce on a drum lesson
that turned into... something bigger.
Or read his description below: "One of the things we did by way of getting to know the
villagers...we presented it to them that I was interested in their
music. So they organized a little thing for us. The drummers brought
their drums out and what started out as a couple of guys with drums
sitting in a courtyard, actually eventually giving my a drum lesson,
turned into a big bust up party with everyone dancing...the old chief
dancing and a guy firing his flint lock off. It evolved into quite a
wild thing for a little while and then of course, I had to play. It was
a hard act to follow but they were a great little audience."
Click here for Bruce's answer to the
INTERACTIVE question "How do people cope with the heat there, what
sort of clothes do they wear and stuff like that?"
Or read his answer below: "Well, I don't think they have as much trouble coping with the heat
as I do. They wear the traditional clothing which is a loose robe.
Usually the man will have trousers and a t-shirt under his robe. That's
kind of the traditional look. They wear a kind of long scarf wrapped
around their head...not a turban exactly, but it has a similar kind of
look except that it comes around their face and they can pull it up so
only their eyes are exposed if there's blowing sand or if they're out in
the sun too long. The Dogon people with whom we're working have a
traditional type of hat...a straw hat sometimes with leather sewn on
it. You see them at home sometimes in import shops. It's kind of a
conical hat that they wear on their head directly or over top of the
scarf. The women wear...well it depends on how much money the people
have too. Some people wear whatever they can get. The traditional
woman's costume is a bit more elaborate than the man's. There are
several layers or overlapping layers of bright cotton prints and that
kind of thing. Very colourful."
Click here for Bruce's answer
to the INTERACTIVE question "(What are) the kids like in the part of
Mali that you are in now? Are they smiley, shy, friendly, curious,
frightened?"
Or read his answer below: "
The kids are generally....certainly not frightened. They generally
are smiling. It depends on what's going on. There's a school in the
village where they go from 8 am to noon and then 3 to 5:30 in the
afternoon. I'm not sure what age groups are involved with that. The
school kids also have their own little market garden they use to help
finance their school supplies. It's an interesting contrast to the
attitude that kids have back home. The kids realy want to be there, and
they really want to be learning what they're learning. Generally
speaking, the kids, as well as everyone else here, they live very hard
lives but they're always ready to joke....to relax and laugh whenever
the opportunity comes up."
Click here
for Bruce's answer to an INTERACTIVE question on the difference
between the "haves" and the "have nots."
Or read his answer below: "I'm not inside this enough to answer with any authority, but
obviously money. To our way of looking at things all of these people
are seriously lacking to different degrees. Some of them are doing
fairly well ...some of them own more land. It's very much a family
thing. Some families are going to be better off if they own more land
that produces more vegetables or better crops. I don't know. I'm not
inside the structure enought to have a sense of whether, for instance,
blacksmiths do better than farmers or vice versa. But there's
obviously, as there is in every society, some people that do better than
others."
Also... please check out
the Photo Gallery for pictures of
the villages around Douentza.
Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 17, 1998 The description of the day is
broken into three parts:
Click here for Bruce's
description of the day's travels. Or read his description below:
"We visited a village called Badiari first thing this morning. That
was a village that was one of those filmed by our folks when they were
over here in the fall. So basically we were just looking at that
village to see if there was anything that they hadn't covered and that
we needed to cover. We had an interesting visit to their seed bank.
It's basically just a building where they store sample types of seeds
and the various things they grow including trees that are around so
that they can plant trees or crops when the occasion calls for it. If
they run out of regular sources of supply they've got the seedbank set
up and can grow locally adapted varieties of these products. But
otherwise it was interesting looking village perched on a sort of
ledge about 40 or 50 feet above the plain. All of these villages are
fantastic looking to my eye.... It was typical of those kind of
villages, but interestingly placed. But we decided that that village
was pretty much covered by what we already have on film so we probably
won't shoot there. This afternoon we went to another village Wollo,
which called for a half hour drive and a half hour hike up slopes that
were made up of enormous shattered boulders...made up of huge pieces
of rock piled on each other and the village was almost completely
hidden from view over a rise in this terrain. We hiked up there and
looked over the place...it was an incredible scenic place. A
beautiful village with an atmosphere of real ancient presence that
overlooked this broad plain with mountains in the distance. I would
have loved to have been up there for the sunset because we were
looking westward and it must have been incredible. That too offered
not a whole lot other than scenic elements in terms of making the
film because the kinds of projects that they were working on were
represented by other things that we're looking at elsewhere and they
were hampered in those projects by apparent political difficulties
within themsellves ...a dispute between two individuals that seemed to
have weakened their ability to organize themselves." Click here for Bruce's description of
a local school.
Or read his description below: "I was quite impressed with the school teacher who seemed to have a
realy good rapport with the kids and the kids who were there were really
enthusiastic and into it. You saw among the kids an interesting variety
of economic levels represented. Everybody in these parts is poor by our
standards, but you notice the tremendous range among the kids in the
classroom, of quality of clothing for instance. There would be ones
with pretty fancy, nice clothes and all presentable and there'd be other
kids who were there in rags and looking like they weren't so well cared
for and so on. There seemed to be a definite range of have and have
nots with that village. That was something that struck me."
Click
here for Bruce's description of a musician he met (and plans
involve in a musical collaboration).
Or read Bruce's description below: "We made contact with a local player of the traditional Malian
guitar. He plays the instrument called the ngonie and he was
recommended to us by Ali Farka Toure as someone we should look up when
we were in this area. Luckily Bob managed to find him by crashing one
of the weddings that was going on. He came by and we arranged to meet
with him on Sunday and see if there is any common musical ground we can
find and we'll just try jamming and see where that goes. So, that was
kind of a nice note to end the day on and that pretty much brings you up
to date."
Also... the team answered a
couple of questions: Click
here for Bruce's take on the status of women in Mali. (We'll
have more perspectives on this as the trip progresses.)
Or read Bruce's description below: "
The status of women varies according to which particular ethnic
group they belong to and also probably according to whether you're
dealing with urban people or rural people. In small towns, things are
liable to be more conservative, although we have to temper that
observation with the fact that in one of the towns we visited yesterday,
the women were very organized, very strong. While the men may have had
traditional attitudes, the women weren't necessarily buying it
completely. In the case of the Tuaregs, that seemed to be an anomoly.
Most of what I've observed seems to be a pretty relaxed version of what
we think of as the Islamic "arrangement", if I can put it that way! The
men do a lot of sitting around talking and the women do a lot of
working. The men and the women in each of these communities seem to
represent distinct groups. They don't consult with each other before
they decide how they're going to deal with us for instance. The men
make those kinds of decisions, even when it involves the women. For
instance, one of the villages we went to today....most of the men had
left the village in the exode (exodus) in which people leave small towns
looking for work elsewhere in the off season, and this is an off season
unless you're into market gardening. So, in this case, the town was
full of women and children and only a few men. A couple of the men met
with us and decided that they couldn't really speak for the village
because the chief was away, but it was fine if we dealt with the women.
We could basically work with the women's co-op and anything that they
were doing, but the village as a whole would have to wait until the
chief came back...whenever that is. So, that's the kind of thing I mean
by the men making the decision even if it involves the women and not
them. How deep that goes, what it means on a day to day basis for
families, it's hard to guess at from my perspective."
Click here for Robert Lang's answer to
an INTERACTIVE question about whethere the trip has had any
"anxiety-provoking" elements. (Bob offers a filmmaker's perspective.)
Or read his perspective below: "It's very relaxed. The only anxiety provoking
aspect of it is not quite knowing. The film hasn't been planned in
advance completely. We knew what we wanted to talk about...we knew our
general approach...we knew what the subject was...but we didn't have the
material to put together that story. It's not anxiety inducing or
anything. It's something when you're making a documentary film, your
always concerned about. Will it all come together in the end. "
Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 16, 1998 To hear Bruce's description of their
day... click here. Or read
his description below: "We basically gave ourselves a slightly
leisurely morning. We didn't leave here until about 10 am...here
being the USC headquarters and guest house, in which we're housed.
The first stop in the day was this village called Beguima and we
looked at the work they're doing...the gardens and the type of farming
they're doing. Basically we were scouting for where we want to get
...look more intensively with respect to the film,. So it was kind of
a general introduction. We met people and we were introduced to the
village elders and there was much discussion about how we would
proceed and when and that sort of thing. They were hospitable and
interested and accommodating, so we made arrangements to film them
later in the week. We then had lunch and this afternoon we went to
another village called Ibissa which was a very interesting place
because we are in a geographical situation that is peculiar in that to
get here you cross miles and miles of flat desert and out of that flat
desert rises very abruptly an escarpment maybe 2000 feet high. Which
has at its base a lot of hills made out of rubble, presumably out of
the escarpment. There's a foothill kind of situation and then you
have these incredible cliffs rising just behind the foothills. In this
particular village of Ibissa, there's a spring at the top of the
little valley in these rocky hills and the spring has created a kind
of oasis-like situation. There was an amazing town, a maze of kind of
little valley-type streets and ancient looking architecture and
gardens lush copmared to everything else around...lush gardens of corn
and garlic and various other kinds of crops. These are market gardens
they also grown tobacco and millet during the appropriate season.
Basically we were doing the same thing there that we did in the
previous town and that was being introduced to people and take a
general kind of look at the place. I have a feeling we'll be doing a
lot filming there because it was a remarkable place visually and a
place that one senses is rich in culture and history and I think we'll
get a lot out of our contact with those people." For pictures of
the villages the team visted today please check out our photo gallery. If you watch our RealMedia video from Mali (shot last
fall) you will see the "escarpment" that Bruce talks about in his
description of the day's events. Also today we have a couple of
answers to serious questions. I should mention that some of this
material is more appropriate for adults than children so... websurfer
discretion is advised. Click
here for Friedrike's answer to a question on the general
availability of healthcare in Mali. Or read her answer below: "The
average health service...there is one medical person per every 23,000
people. That translates roughly into health care accessible to less
than 20 per cent of the population on average. Which means that the
north, which is normally more deprived than the south of the country,
has even less than that. So the health situation is very, very poor.
There are many areas where there is nothing. With development programs
like those of USC the communities have started to realize that maybe
they have to do something by themselves. They don't have a lot of
money, but they've been able to group the villages together and set up
a dispensary together and they've hired young people who have just
finished medical school and haven't gotten any experience yet and
can't really get jobs in the cities and jobs in the south....and they
go out into the north and they work as medical facilitators and they
are called bush doctors. So they've been very, very helpful and the
communities have been helped tremendously by this beginning of a
medical service in the north and even that is not enough but it's a
start. So the government has seen there is a lot of initiative on the
community level and one hopes that there will be more programs
following."
Click here for Friedrike's
answer to a question about whether female genital mutilation is
practised in Mali. Or read her answer below: "The issue of genital
mutilation is a serious issue in Mali. It is still very widespread in
the country. There are programs underway to address it, but it will
take quite a lot of work to change. There are a lot of traditions
involved and it is, as probably people know, not necessarily linked to
Islam. It is a much older African tradition and it needs a lot of
work and education before it can be addressed in a constructive
way."
Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 15, 1998 Or
read his description below: Well last night was the big concert with
Ali Farka Toure in Timbuktou. He brought guest artists with him...the
local griot and another singer and some people from Mauritania. One
of them sang, one of them played guitar and the other a large
base-sounding kind of drum. They made very interesting music. Quite
different from the Malians, more arabic sounding, more North African
sounding, but really neat and intense. Ali Farka Toure was very good.
He had invited me up to jam with him. The phrase he used was "it
would be great if we could play together" so he called me up after
he'd done a bunch of songs by himself. We played but I don't think we
exactly played together. It had more to do with Ali Farka just
playing period. The fact that I happened to be there was of less
consequence than some of the things that were happening for him. So,
it was an interesting encounter. The first tune we played together
worked quite well and then after that he turned up and that was it for
me. I was there for awhile, playing along with him. It was very
interesting actually. I got to watch him close up. He did some
pretty neat things. But as a musical experience it fell short of
rewarding, let's say. But the concert overall was a success and the
Afro-Pop people were very happy and the evening was a fine one."
For those who asked about animals in Mali... click here to hear Bruce's
description of the animals he saw today. Or read his description
below: "We saw hippos today. There were camels and donkeys, goats
along the road, many different kinds of very interesting looking
birds.....Although someone gave me a book of West African birds before
I left, I didn't have room to pack it. It's sitting in Toronto. I'll
have to look up these birds when I get home."
As I'm sure you all know, every country has its legal recreational
drugs (like alcohol in North America). Click here for Bruce's answer to the
INTERACTIVE question "Have you discovered the Malian equivalent of the
Tungba yet?" Or read his answer below: "So far it's beer. Being in
an Islamic country, booze is not a big part of it although I hear
stories about things that people have encountered, but I haven't seen
anything myself. The thing that people talk about here is a tea.
They make the tea out of green tea and lots of sugar and they boil it
a bunch of times and pour it back and forth and back and forth quite
awhile to make it. You get it served in a shot glass. It's a really
interesting combination of bitter and sweet and it packs a wallop!"
Click here for Bruce's answer to
the INTERACTIVE question "Are drums popular in Mali?" Or read his
answer below: "Drums are very popular in Mali. Every place we've been
somebody's been playing drums. I don't mean people on the street, but
when there's any kind of celebration going on, or event taking place,
so far there's been drums around. I would say, like other countries
in this part of the world, the drum is a central part of the culture.
It has an important place in the music."
And finally...click here for
Bruce's description of the ferry ride that began today's journey from
Timbuktu to Douentza. (I was supposed to be a "three hour
cruise.") Or read Bruce's description below: "This morning we left
quite early. We had to take a ferry to cross the Niger River from
Timbuktou to get the road to Douentza. We were told the ferry ride
would take maybe three hours. It was a bit mysterious because the
river's not that wide. When we got on the ferry, which was just a
flat car ferry with not particular superstructure....it would have
held maybe six cars if you really packed them in...we were the only
two vehicles on board and it turned out that this boat was powered by
basically a dug out pirogue with an outboard motor. The engine on the
ferry didn't work and hadn't obviously worked for some years. That
would explain why it might be a three hour trip...it was probably a 35
horse-power motor pushing this thing. The first thing we did was get
caught on a sand bar. The water was very shallow, so the crew got out
and pushed and the outboard driver did his best and eventually we got
off the sand bar and made our way across the river and continued our
journey from there."
Since the team is now in Douentza... you might like to look at some
pictures of Douentza (taken last fall). To find the pictures, click
on the button on the left labelled "Photo Gallery." Daily Journal:
FEBRUARY 14, 1998 Click here to allow
producer Bob Lang to set the scene (especially if you don't know Ali
Farka Toure). Or read his description below: "We did film the
impromptu meeting of Bruce and Ali Farka Toure right outside the hotel
here which was kind of interesting to see. He was immediately
recognizable as opposed to the other musicians that we've
met....recognizable as a famous musician in a way because he had this
signature style about him. He looked like an African John Lee Hooker
and his guitar style is reminiscent of John Lee Hooker. So we
immediately put them together and Bruce walked right up to him and
said hello. It was kind of an interesting meeting that way. We
didn't expect it. It was a bit of a surprise to meet him right
outside the hotel."
Then click here for Bruce's description
of the day - including meeting Ali Farka Toure. Or read his
description below: "The day was characterized by a few things. One
certainly was meeting Ali Farka Toure. That was unexpected and a neat
thing. It caught us by surprise because..first of all...although we
thought there was a possibility we might meet him tonight, we thought
we would be introduced to him by the folks from the Afro-Pop
organization. It was an unexpected thing that he arrived this morning
before we even really got doing anything. We'd been out shooting some
stuff but it was much earlier in the day. So, I didn't have my mind
psyched around meeting him. I was a bit ga-ga ...it was great. He
remembered meeting me at the Winnipeg folk festival and was very
friendly and welcoming and invited me to sit in with him tonight which
I think will probably happen but like everything, it's a wait until
the last minute thing. But that seems to be what's going to happen
tonight. So, I'm looking forward to that."
Click here for Bob's answer to the
INTERACTIVE question on how the film equipment is holding up in the
heat. Or read his description below: "That's a good question. It
was a real concern of all of ours, even Martin who had been here in
October...because he had been in Douentza and not up here in the real
desert where you're literally driving over sand dunes for hour after
hour. We were all concerned because electronic equipment doesn't
respond very well to dust. It is more harmful, but so far ...touch
wood....it's doing very well. We're trying to keep it clean and we're
covering it whenever we're travelling, to keep things as clean as
possible but even then there's dust in the air so when you open the
camera to put in a new cassette you can see it and you don't quite
know where it came from but there's dust in there. As careful as you
may be its everywhere and we're trying to keep it under control...keep
the equipment covered whenever we're not using it and cleaning it
whenever possible too!"
Click here to Bruce's
description of a day wandering around in Timbuktu. Or read his
description below: "We did some poking around the town. It's an
amazing little town. It's a tourist trap definately..or the closest
thing to a tourist trap that Mali has to offer. It comes by it
honestly because of the depth of history visible here. It's a meeting
place...it's always been a market town. From its origins it's been a
centre of all kinds of things and the people...there's many different
ethnic groups and cultures that come together here as well, including
us..so that's kind of exciting. Then, the river and looking at
USAid/World Food program thing and the obvious contrast between that
kind of thing and what USC's all about."
Click here for Bruce's description of a
shopping trip that ends with an discussion with a "Tuareg gentleman"
(who has interesting things to say about the historical role of women
among the Tuareg people). Or read his description below: "We did a
bit of shopping, doing the tourist thing. We were taken into the
Tuareg area. People were trying to sell us stuff left, right and
centre. One place was a women's co-op. It's worth pointing out
through the course of a conversation with this Tuareg gentleman who
was giving us the history of the town, I asked him at one point about
women because he said that the university that was here in the middle
ages, that was a famous university in the Islamic world, at one point
it had as many as 25,000 students...was founded by a woman. That
caught my attention because we have a particular image of women in the
Islamic world. He told us in Tuareg society, women run things, in
contrast to the rest of Islam, where its permissable for men to have
four wives. Among Tuaregs that's extremely rare because Tuareg men
respect their wife...that was the phrase he used....which is an
interesting glimpse of a whole other society that I know virtually
nothing about. It was fascinating. We had discussions about the role
of the marabou, who are kind of Tuareg society-like, like a lot of
other societies around here, structured along family lines where you
can be a warrior family or a shepherding family or a marabou family.
The marabou are the intellectuals, that was his word also, who are
responsible for judging disputes...who are responsible for spiritual
guidance (the study of the Koran) and who are also involved in the
magical side. I asked him about magical practices and he got
momentarily upset. He said magic was a really bad thing and noone
wanted anything to do with magic. But I asked him about what you see
people wearing around their necks and he said that's grigory and
grigory is there for keeping evil spirits away or whatever and has
nothing to dow with magic. It was a really interesting discussion
with this guy whose name was, interestingly enough, Mohamed Ali."
Click here for Bruce's answer to an
INTERACTIVE question on the kind of food they're getting to eat in
Mali. Or read his answer below: "Drink has been mostly fruit juice,
or beer or water. None of it is particularly interesting, but it's
welcome when it comes. Food....we've had interesting food. The food
here is a particular cuisine. In this area it's a little different
from down around Bamako. Around Bamako you can see the french
influence very strongly....the cuisine that we were exposed to at
least. It's food that is traditional to the area too...its couscous,
rice and potatoes and starch based food...but also interesting sauces.
Not particularly spicey but spicey sauce is available if you ask for
it, but it doesn't seem to come that way. A lot of things are kind of
couscous with a stew of vegetables and meat...usually lamb or sheep.
And today we've been invited to join the Afro-Pop touring group in
their dinner which has been provided by Ali Farka Toure. He donated
five lamb to be eaten so we are going to partake of that just now." Daily Journal:
FEBRUARY 13, 1998 Click here to hear
Bruce tell you about today's leg of the journey. Or read about it
below: "It was a day that was at once both a path of mini adventures
and monotonous at the same time. We got up early and we left the
place that I told you about last night...the town Lere in which we
were the guests of this french NGO. When we got up, those guys had
made breakfast for us. We'd slept in the courtyard...it was a pretty
amazing atmosphere. Houses here centre around a courtyard. In this
case, it was a big installation. They had their offices and living
quarters and there were two courtyards and we were in the living
quarters one where we just put out mattresses they gave us and most of
us had sleeping bags...and we just lay down on those under the full
moon and in my case, it produced a really good night's sleep. We were
up early...left there while the sun was still really low. We found
that even as the day progressed and the sun got high and did its usual
thing going acros the sky, the light never really got to be full day
light. There was always this kind of weird twilight atmosphere and
its the amount of dust in the air..... this blowing sand which you
can't really see. It doesn't blow over you in waves the way Hollywood
sandstorms do...but it's just this presence in the air that causes
strange silvery light which is quite beautiful and spooky. We had
lunch in a place caled Niafonke, which is where we were originally
going to be spending the night, but didn't make it to. We discovered
that Ali Farke Toure, who we hope to contact tomorrow, owns a hotel
and restaurant here, or he operates one. So we went to the
restaurant, but he wasn't there. So, we had lunch and it was quite
decent...fish and chips basically in a sophisticated form. And we
carried on and in the afternoon...the big adventure was those of us in
the front vehicle, noticing that the other vehicle was nowhere to be
seen and we waited and waited and they didn't show up. So, we turned
back and went to look for them and way back, close to where we'd last
seen them, we found they'd been stuck in the sand and had to get
themselves out. It was a bit of a potential adventure there. It was
almost like getting lost in the desert, but not quite. We were lost
with our satellite phone. Eventually we found our way to Timbuktou
and we're now standing in front of the hotel in Timbuktou."
And (don't miss this) check out Bruce's description of what the desert is REALLY
like (as opposed to the way it looks in Hollywood movies). Or
read his description below: "The desert, as you drive across it at
least in the direction we were going...you go through a series of kind
of micro climates where the texture of the sand changes in
colour...the vegetation changes and the spacing of the vegetation
changes....less water ....you get further into desert-like conditions.
The bits of vegetation get further apart until you hit a spot where
water does come to the surface, or where lakes hold their water. For
this part of the year, everything's green. It's quite interesting.
As you go north and you go higher, the trees get smaller and the
plants change because there's less oxygen, less water...more cold,
shorter growing season etc. The conditions in the desert seem to
change in a similar pattern."
Click here for producer Robert Lang's
description of the road to Timbuktu (although "road" may not be the
right word). Or read his description below: "When you look at the
map where we were...I think you have some details on the web
site...from Lere to Timbuktou you see a solid line on the map.
Driving on it you don't see a solid line...let me tell you...all you
see is sand. You're really amazed at the drivers, especially our
driver who is in the lead, how he's able to negotiate and figure out
which path to take. And that's all it is really. Sometimes there's a
bit of a semblance of someone having driven over this sand
before...and he seems to instinctively know which way to go, which
amazes me every time. And he always seems to end up at the right
place!"
Click here for Bruce's answer to a
question about what it's like to play guitar in a very very hot
climate (which segues into a kind of "It was so hot that..."
section). Or read his answer below: "Well, first of all, I've been
able to avoid playing guitar in the direct sunlight, so I haven't
burnt myself yet!!! But, in the full heat of the sun, I tell you this
is not like any (heat) I've experienced before. In the middle of the
day standing out in the sun is like standing next to a hot stove
element. Unbelievable!! You can actually feel youself being burnt
while you stand there. So, I imagine having the guitar out in the sun
is something I'd rather not experience." Daily Journal:
FEBRUARY 12, 1998 Click here to hear Bruce
tell you what they saw today on the road to Timbuktu. Or read about
it below: "There was a lot of sitting around. I was in the back seat.
It was in incredible day actually. It started very early. Well, we
were going to start at six but we probably didn't leave until 6:30.
It was still dark when we went down and the sun came up and we were on
the road. It was pretty basic highway travel, for this part of the
world anyways. There were interesting glimpses, as we'd pass through
towns, of people getting up to start their day. As we progressed
closer to our destination, which was a place called Niafonke, which
would put us within striking distance of Timbuktou for tomorrow, we
got into more desert-like conditions. It was probably a couple of
hundred kilometres, which you wouldn't think, under normal conditions,
would take us very long....it took us many, many hours...driving over
flat terrain which was pretty much just trees stuck in sand. At one
point, one of the highlights for me was going down this abandoned road
and finding ourselves approaching a little town and on the edge of the
town was a well. The wells around here are built so they are
raised....they slope the ground up to the well. It's on a little rise
and there's a wooden framework to support the bucket and pulleys.
There was a group of nomadic herdsmen at this well with herds of goats
and a couple of camels and a lot of cattle. There were three camels
with which they were hauling the water. We had to wait until they
cleared the way for us to get through. It was incredible scene.
These guys were carrying swords and daggers and living the way they
always have. It was really something....beyond my immediate powers of
description. From there we basically wound our way on until it became
apparent that we weren't going to make it to Niafonke before dark.
You don't want to be out in the desert after dark because you can't
see where you are going for one thing, so we ended up stopping at
Lere. It's a town that's built out of materials that are basically
found locally, so the buildings are low, one storey buildings, made
out of mud brick, that look just like the ground around them....this
incredible harmony of architecture and landscape. The town is nearly a
ghost town because of the desertification in the area, until very
recently. We're very grateful guests of two guys from a french NGO
(non governmental organization) who are here digging wells and putting
in water systems for people to combat the desert. As a result of their
efforts, people have come back and there's now a thriving market and a
town full of people, who were very curious to see us driving
through." Click here for Bruce's reponse to
questions about why Mali interests him (in particular) Or read his
answer below: " That's actually quite simple. I've done a lot of work
with USC in the past and I've known for a long time that they've had
projects in Mali. Bob Lang, who is directing the film, approached me
initially with the idea of coming here to make this kind of a film and
I welcomed the invitation to participate. At that point it was just
kind of a theoretical exercise and we weren't sure it would come to
pass..but it seemed like a great idea from several points of
view...from the value of the work...from the point of view of the
possibility of making a very interesting film and of me being in it
....and from my own, very selfish point of view...getting a chance to
go to Timbuktou. It's not every day you get invited to go to
Timbuktou. I was made an offer I couldn't really refuse. That's why
Mali in particular." Click here
for Bruce's answer to an INTERACTIVE question about the difference
between Mali and Mozambique. Or read his answer below: In comparing
it (Mali) to Mozambique, I can't say they're worlds apart...but they
are a great distance apart...culturally, historically, physically. The
cultural traditions of Mali go back to the early middle ages, at which
time the first of a series of empires occured that achieved a very
sophisticated degree of culture. There's a real pride in that
tradition among people and a sense that they have a connection with
that tradition. People are aware of it and preserve it and revere
their family relations to the past. And so that's a very distinct
difference from Mozambique, which had been the victim...perhaps that's
not the right word to use.....of 500 years of colonialism, followed by
25 years of warfare. Mali's had its struggles too, and it certainly
had its colonial experience, but it was a much shorter colonial
experience...only lasting 100 or so years. It was a colonial
experience that was imposed upon a culture that was already very aware
of itself and strong."
Daily Journal:
FEBRUARY 11, 1998 Today Bruce
had an exciting musical encounter with a Malian musician. We tried to
transfer the music they made from Mali to Canada using our satellite
phone. Unfortunately it didn't work. (Click
here to hear a few seconds of the unfortunate result.) But
never mind... You can still click here
to hear Bruce tell you all about it. (Link note: click here for
info on the West African musical instrument called the Kora.)
You can also read what Bruce said below: "Well the big event of the
day was the recording of the music that you really didn't quite get
to hear. That happened at the home of Tumani Djabouti, whose name I
think I mentioned to you last night and maybe the night before
too...the one we've been anxious to hook up with! He is one of the
finest exponents of an instrument called the Kora and we made a plan
that we would get together today and it actually worked out. We spent
the afternoon doing a couple of songs together in front of the camera
in the courtyard of his house. His house is a big old Malian house
with a little apartment-style courtyard in which many family members
live. Tumani, as the oldest son of a relatively recently deceased
father, is the head of the family. So, he, at the age of 30 or
35..something like that...is responsible for the welfare of about 30
people and is an amazing guy...partly maybe due to the responsibility.
He's really gracious, a really enthusiastic person and a fantastic
musician. So we basically played for awhile this afternoon. We played
a song of mine called 'World of Wonders' and a traditional Malian
tune...because Tumani doesn't sing. So I played (on the Kora) and he
played (on my guitar) and it worked out really well. Everyone was
happy!"
Also... some INTERACTIVE participants have been interested in Bruce's
feelings about being in a Muslim country. Click here for his thoughts on this
subject. Or read his answer below: I feel welcome...I feel well
looked after. It is a real good feeling, you know. I don't have any
problem being among people of other faiths. I live among people who
don't subscribe to the Christian view of the world at home all the
time, so why should it be any different here. People are hospitable
and the faith is evident. You can hear the call to prayer coming from
the mosques at various hours of the day. You sometimes see people
praying in the Muslim manner. That's part of the culture.
This particular country appears to have a lighter approach and a less
fundamentalist approach than some other places. People are quite
relaxed, for instance, about the presence of alcohol in society. There
are bars and there a lot of people who don't drink, but apparently
they are not very judgemental of those who do. So, it's not a
situation where the faith weighs very heavily on society at large, or
at least the external appearance is that. What it means to the people
internally...I haven't talked to anyone about that, so I can't answer
that.
It's important for people to remember that Islam is now more a united
front than Christianity is. there are different strains of it. People
take to it in different personal ways. There are traditions in Islam
that represent varied approaches and varied interpretations of the
Koran and so on.....just like there are with Christianity. So when
you hear rhetoric that things are being done in the name of this faith
or that faith...whichever one it is ...you have to be cautious about
assuming that goes for everyone who embraces that faith."
Daily Journal:
FEBRUARY 10, 1998
Our film team is still Bamako, the capital of Mali. Today was really
really hot (they didn't know how hot... just hot).
For those of you who want to know how Malians are combatting
desertification click here for
Friedrike's description of a USC project in action. Or read her
answer below: "We went to see our first project and it was a village
just outside of Bamako...about thirty-five kilometres and it is near a
planted forest. This was our first lesson desertification in the sense
that we learned that desertification starts at a particular point and
those points get degraded and then join together and it spreads. We
could see that in action and what USC Canada is trying to do to
reverse the trend of the cycle. It was quite impressive and it was
very, very hot!"
For those who are interested in the children of Mali you can
listen to Friederike speak about what
kids eat and what games they're
into. Or read her answers below: "The staple food here is
millet and rice and some sauce. If you have a little bit of money in
the family then you may have some chicken also. Usually people eat
twice a day and that's pretty good. Many people only have one meal a
day because there is not enough food. Of course they all try to get
the kids more food if they can. The kids have to help, as in many
developing countries, looking after the animals and working in the
fields."
"Kids play games like they do everywhere. They make a lot of toys
themselves in the villages. At the moment it is the big world cup of
soccer football, which is currently happening in France I understand,
so here everybody is into soccer football. It's a game everyone is
playing. Even the kids are playing it!"
AND... you have to hear this: Click
here to hear Bruce talk about what he called a "harrowing" musical
encounter. Or read about it below: "It was a slightly more
harrowing musical experience than the one last night, as I'll get to.
It was very rewarding and in fact really great! We went to see a
griotte, which is the female of a grio. I'm not quite sure how to
describe it ethnologically, but the grios are families, that in
traditional Malian society, had a heraldic function. Its their job to
sing the stories of the history of the country and the families that
they are associated with and in some cases act as mediators on all
sorts of levels in social interactions. They have a very important
role in society and their singing is characteristic of this area and
it will be familiar to people who are used to listening to Afropop
music."
"So this woman who we went to see is someone that we hope to engage to
perform for the film and she's committed herself to doing so. But we
had a great time meeting because her house is a typical traditional
Malian house with a courtyard and a porch. We were invited to sit on
her porch and she came and sat by us and fanned the flies away while
we talked...and she offered us water. Various members of her family
came and went as we talked and she sang for us. She doesn't speak
much french, she speaks Bambara, which is one of the major languages
in Mali. She understood some french, so one of her sisters for awhile
and then her brother-in-law were translating for her. We carried on
this kind of discussion about music in general and about her
involvement in particular and then she turned to me and she said "you
have to sing" and I said "Oh no...I can't do that without my guitar,
it's not my style". I was kind of shocked and she insisted. So I
ended up having to sing a few verses of 'Stolen Land', to the great
interest of the folks around who kind of made a fantastic audience
because they listened so intently to everything you sang and of course
they're not getting the words. But they would respond with little
vocal sounds themselves and at one point they were singing along to
'Stolen Land' or the chorus of it. It was pretty exciting."
Click here to hear how Bruce plans
to interact musically with Malian musicians to create music for the
the documentary film "River of Sand." Or read his answer below:
"The true answer to that will not be phrased in the future tense, it
will be after the fact when we know exactly what was going on. But
our intention is, for the purpose of the film, to have me interacting
with one or more of the musicians here. Not with ??? ...her music
stands on its own which would only be interfered with by my presence.
But a couple of other people...Tumani Djabouti, whom we met last night
for instance...we are hoping to arrange with him to get some kind of a
jam on film. There are other people we are thinking of in that way
too. As far as recording a CD...no we're not really thinking of that
at all. Anything is possible in the future I suppose, but that's not
in the plans right now."
And finally... Click here for Friederike's take on
how the government of Mali is tackling the desertification problem.
Or read her answer below: "Currently the government of Mali is a
democracy and they are very interested and concerned about the
problems. They are very interested in community solutions, so we have
a very good collaboration with government officials and they've been
very helpful. They are also very interested in preserving traditional
species of trees. Some of them have disappeared from the countryside
and they are trying to help set up gene banks and a Biodiversity
institute to try and help recover some of the traditional knowledge
...and work with the local people to address those problems."
Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 9,
1998
As they were yesterday... our film team is Bamako, the capital of
Mali preparing to travel to Timbuktu. Click
here for Bruce's description of what the team did today or read
about it below: "We had a very interesting day. We spent the
morning in a meeting...another planning meeting...with the people we
are going to be travelling with, organizing where we will be going,
when....and all of that sort of thing. Then we engaged in a fruitless
search for a bank to change money. Our timing was bad. The offices
that do this were closed the hour that we were there. After we hooked
up with a quebecois guy, (Gaetan Marchand), who has lived here a long
time and is acquainted with a lot of musician people around. He took
us to meet Tumani Djabouti and we had an interesting meeting at
Tumani's house, listening to him play. I actually got a bit of a Kora
lesson from him, which was more embarrasing than anything else. It's
all added up to a pretty colourful day." Click here for Bruce's answer to the
question, " Is this trip providing inspiration for a new song or
songs?"... or read about it below: "Well, that's a good question. I
sincerely hope so, but you never know how that's going to work out. We
actually had a really interesting encounter tonight with a guy named
Tumani Djabouti, who plays an instrument called the Kora which is kind
of an elongated harp-like thing that uses a gourd as a resonator. And
he's a master at this instrument...one of the few recognized masters
evident. He played a little bit for us and we are hoping we will be
able to hook up with him and jam a little bit. When you start doing
that, all kinds of ideas come out. So, that, plus the incredible
variety and intensity of the surroundings....there's a pretty good
chance something will come out."
Click here for Bruce's answer to the
question "Which guitar did you bring?"... or read about it below:
"I didn't bring the Manzer guitar. I brought my ? because it
travels a little better. It is made of metal so it is less prone to
being susceptible to extremes in temperature and humidity and we are
certainly in a situation where we have extreme degrees of temperature
and an extreme lack of humidity. That was the guitar of choice."
Click here for Bruce's comments on the
effect of Mali's politics on the life of the people of Mali. Or...
read about it below: "I am not as knowledgeable as I should be to
properly answer that (question) but my impression is that it
(politics) is doing a little of both as it does in most places. The
country has a democratically elected government that has been in place
for a few years. It had a history of some troubles in the past but
lately things have been pretty cool and certainly the vibe walking
around the streets is very calm. You don't get the sense of a
repressive military presence or anything like that. In fact there is
a conspicuous absence of police in the streets compared to some places
I've been and people are going around in what seems to be a pretty
good mood. There's a lot of smiling and friendliness everywhere you
go so that, to me, adds up to a place where, at least for the urban
people, things are rolling along fairly well."
Click here for Bruce's answer to
questions on the relative affluence/poverty of Bamako. Or... read
about it below: " Yes, by western standards, certainly it is a poor
city (Bamako). Compared to other places I've been.....Mozambique for
example, it is rolling dough. There's a lot of poverty in Bamako.
There are extremes. There are people here, as there are elsewhere, who
are doing just fine thank you and then other people who are doing less
well and there are a noticeable number of poor. One of the things
that has happened as a result, partly of desertification, is that a
lot of people have been leaving the countryside and then coming to the
city in search of some way of supporting themselves other than by
farming, because in the presence of a drought and an increase in
desertification, farming has become more difficult. So, the numbers
of people looking for work have swollen in the city and that puts
pressure on all the systems, as it will."
Daily Journal: FEBRUARY 8, 1998
Right now our film team is Bamako, the capital of Mali preparing to
travel to Timbuktu.
They're staying in a tiny hotel called "Almunia." Daytime
temperature: 40 degrees Celsius. Click here for Bruce's general impressions of
Bamako. Click here for Bruce talking
about why he's involved in the River of Sand project.
Click here for Bruce's answer to the
question "How much stuff did you bring with you to Mali?"
Click here for Bruce's comments on the
merits of internet technology.
To find the team's whole itinerary click
here. |